In Chinese medicine and in Ayurveda, the hallmark of a balanced meal is the inclusion of all of the flavours. By including all of the flavours in a meal, you’re probably going to feel very satisfied. And satisfaction is a crucial element of enjoyable, intuitive eating.
One of these flavours is bitter, a very important taste that many of us are missing on our plates.
Throughout Spring and Summer in my Southeast Queensland neighbourhood, edible weeds pop up everywhere including in my own my backyard.
Under the kids’ trampoline out of the lawnmower’s reach, I find dandelion greens, sow thistle, sheep sorrel, and wild carrot, among other largely unknown yet freely available sources of nutrition (always correctly identify plants before eating them, come to one of my Herb Walks to help you with this!). At the farmer’s market I uncover a similar array: mustard greens, endive, chicory, kale, parsley, rocket.
They're all bitter, sour and/or pungent. Most Westerners severely neglect these flavour elements in favour of more sweet and salty tasting foods.
Bitter foods are particularly neglected. It's no coincidence that processes supported by the bitter flavour like liver detoxification and digestion, are some of the most problematic areas of health for westerners!
Ask any acupuncturist which imbalance they see most in their practice and they will probably answer liver Qi stagnation, which is treated with bitter herbs and foods, among other things.
So why eat bitters?
Unfortunately, many of us were taught from a young age that bitter (and sour and pungent) foods are yucky. Take notoriously bitter Brussels sprouts. For many of us these were boiled, steamed or microwaved, instead of roasted in butter to a divinely caramelised, crunchy softness! But there are many benefits to be gleaned from befriending bitters:
Digestion
Bitter foods stimulate the production of gastric acid in the stomach, helping you to digest and absorb more of the nutrients in your food. They stimulate metabolism, fight free radicals and stimulate immune function. What’s not to love!
Liver Detoxification, Skin and Hormones
The liver is the power house of the body, responsible for metabolising pretty much anything we put into the body. Be it carbohydrates, caffeine, hormones, or medications, the liver dutifully handles all of it.
Bitter flavours support the liver in its two most important functions: they trigger the production of bile, a digestive compound that breaks down fats and improves nutrient absorption, and they boost the liver's detoxification efforts.
Signs that the liver's detoxification pathways and/or bile production are impaired include skin conditions like acne, fat malabsorption, low energy and a feeling of "sluggishness" or malaise, and hormonal issues which can lie at the root of conditions like fibroids, endometriosis, gynaecomastia, and other oestrogen dominant conditions.
Mood
Liver stagnation as it's referred to in Chinese medicine can lead to feelings of low mood, grumpiness and/or depression that go hand in hand with the low energy and general feeling of "yuck and stuck". In TCM the Wood element corresponds with the liver and imbalances manifest as anger, often accompanied by tight, tense muscles and dry eyes.
In the Galenic system of constitutional categorisation, the Choleric type is the liverish person prone to anger. We also use this in our language, when we say we're feeling "bilious", "liverish", or perhaps a bit "green under the gills."
Similarly in the Ayurvedic system, we hear "Bitter is better for Pitta." People who predominantly identify as Pitta dosha can be naturally more prone to impatience, intolerance, and angry outbursts.
Bitter foods are energetically cooling, drying, opening, grounding, and work directly on the liver, soothing fiery constitutions and balancing mood and digestion - which thanks to the gut-brain axis go hand in hand - all at once.
Bitter herbs, foods and wild plants:
Here are a few lists of my favourite bitters, some of which you might have lying in the dark corners of your tea cabinet, on your culinary spice rack, or growing in your back yard!
Bitter foods:
Artichoke
Bitter Melon
Brussels Sprouts
Broccoli
Chicory
Cranberries
Dark Chocolate
Dandelion (root, leaves)
Eggplant
Grapefruit
Kale
Rocket
Bitter plants you can forage:
Cat's Ears
Chicory
Dandelion (root, leaves)
Mugwort
Yellow Dock (root)
Usnea
Wild Radish
Please note: If foraging for wild edible plants always be sure you have correctly identified and harvested them sustainably before eating them. Joining me on one of my Herb Walks will help you enormously with this!
Bitter herbs (for the herbs with a * I recommend consulting a herbalist or naturopath if you're thinking of using these medicinally, as they are powerful and require respectful, possibly lower or shorter duration of dosing):
Andrographis*
Artichoke leaf
Chamomile
Chelidonium*
Fenugreek
Feverfew*
Gentian root*
Globe Artichoke
Golden Seal*
Hops*
Mugwort*
Saffron
Turmeric
Usnea
Vervain
Wormwood*
Yarrow
In the last list, the dose varies according to the herb. Please follow the instructions on the product you’re purchasing. Because the nature of bitter herbs is considered cool to cold (depending on the herb), they are commonly combined with herbs of a warming nature, such as cinnamon, ginger, fennel, and cardamom, to prevent digestive discomfort and create energetic balance.
There are a number of contraindications to the medicinal use of bitters. Do not use concentrated herbal bitters in the following conditions:
- Kidney stones
- Gallbladder disease
- Hiatal hernia
- Gastritis
- Peptic ulcer
If you're unsure about which herbs and dosages are right for you, I recommend you visit a qualified naturopath or herbalist who can individually prescribe a herbal tincture or other preparation that is right for your unique needs and considers your medical history and medications.
Sour and pungent foods, too
Let's not forget the other flavours often forgotten about - sour and pungent!
Sour foods stimulate digestion, but they also support circulation and elimination, and increase absorption of minerals such as iron. The vitamin C in sour lemon juice increases your absorption of iron from both plant and animal sources of this mineral. This is a great reason to add lemon juice to your green salads.
The pungent taste can be very hot like that found in chilli; warm like that in garlic, cinnamon or ginger; or cool like that in peppermint. All are wonderful digestives as well as ways to make a meal more delicious, aromatic, and interesting.
Scared you can't hack the bitter truth? Start with a little parsley sprinkled on your meal, or try a few rocket leaves in a salad with some olive oil and salt. You might find that the more you eat bitter, sour and pungent foods, the more you’ll want to eat them.
The therapeutic use of flavours
In traditions like Chinese medicine and Ayurveda it has long been known that the flavour of a food provides valuable insights into the actions and medicinal properties of that food. For example the bitter flavour of dandelion leaves reduces both heat and damp conditions – think infections and inflammation. Keep in mind that the flavour describes the therapeutic property of the food rather than the taste you experience on your tongue.
The five basic tastes in Traditional Chinese Medicine are sweet, salty, sour, pungent, and bitter. Ayurveda adds a sixth taste to this list: astringent.
The Western diet provides an abundance of the first two tastes. Currently, bitter tastes are usually only encountered in beer, coffee, tea, and chocolate. But we can introduce the other flavours to our meals – in fact, doing so can elevate the entire experience of eating.
As a child my mum (who is Chinese) served us vegetables like bitter melon (which is nothing but bitter!) sautéed in garlic, salt and sesame oil, a dish I still love to this day. This was an accompaniment to the sweetness of jasmine rice and the sweet saltiness of steamed chicken. Sliced chilli, pungent spring onions, cabbage and other side dishes rounded out the flavour profile of the meal.
In both Chinese medicine and Ayurveda, the hallmark of a balanced meal is the inclusion of all of the flavours, whereas western nutrition tends to refer to the balance of macronutrients (carbohydrates, fat and protein).
From a nutritional science perspective sweet and salty foods provide carbohydrate, fat, protein and water, whereas the bitter, sour, pungent and astringent foods are high in vitamins, minerals and antioxidants. We need all of the flavours for optimal health and enjoyment of food.
Overview of the Five Flavours
It’s an art and a form of self-love to cook ourselves food that involves all the five flavours and to eat with awareness, allowing ourselves to enjoy and have fun with our food.
If you're interested in learning more about how to safely identify, forage and use wild growing greens (including our bitter friends), join me on my next Herb Walk - these are a fun and enlightening way to forge stronger relationships with the green allies growing around us that we can call upon as food and medicine. And many wild greens are bitter, sour and pungent!
Now excuse me while I duck out to pick some greens from under the trampoline.
Happy foraging!
Casey
* Please note: If foraging for wild edible plants always be sure you have correctly identified them before eating them.
This article was originally published in Living Now magazine at https://livingnow.com.au/the-bitter-truth/